Welcome to our education page. On this page you will find a care sheet for leopard geckos. Please e-mail me for any questions.
The leopard gecko, (Eublepharis macularius). First off prepare for arrival of your new leopard gecko. Have a cage set up with fresh water and food. A glass or plastic cage with 10"X 10" of floor space for each gecko is needed. Make sure the cage is 12" high.
A paper towel or newspaper works great as substrate. Easy to clean and doesn't harm the geckos. Provide fresh water and a feeding dish for mealworms. Get a humid hide box and put peat moss or Vermiculite in it. You can use a glad ware box or small rubbermaid box. Cut a hole in the top and spray as needed to keep it moist. This helps them when the need to shed.
Heat! This is very important. Keep the cage of off the floor one area of the cage needs to be around 90 F. The whole cage doesn't need to be that temp. Like all reptiles they need to thermo regulate. Meaning they need to have a warm spot and a cold spot. I recommend placing a hide spot over the warm area and a hide spot over the cold area. Leopard Geckos are nocturnal (they are active at night). Most of the time they hide during the day. You really don't need a light on them at all! But if it is really cold in your house you may want to buy a red or blue heat light. I avoid using sun glo light bulbs from pet stores get the red or blue night heat lights if you need to raise the air temp. Never place your cage in direct sunlight that is bad very bad.
Feeding: Feed live food. Mealworms and crickets are excellent feeders and can be found for very cheap on the internet. Feed 4-5 feeder items each day. If the gecko is not eating all of the food reduce quantity. If you are feeding with crickets only feed the amount the geckos consume in one night. If there are left over crickets throw them away since they will have lost nutritional value. Gut load all feeder insects 24hrs ahead of time. Dust feeders with calcium powder. (more to come on the types of calcium to use)
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